The Puzzle Is Missing A Couple Of Pieces

I completely forgot about front and rear sights plus some sling mounts.

Other than that, I think I got it put together.

There were of course the required number of rookie mistakes plus some fiddle farting around with the trigger and the safety that didn’t want to either pivot correctly or not quite fit at all.

I fixed the trigger not wanting to pivot easily by using some 600 grit wet/dry emory paper and hand lapping the ends of the trigger pivot points a little so that they just fit still but quit binding up.

The safety main barrel was actually out of round by a couple thousandths and didn’t want to fit in the hole. A little treatment with the same emory paper finally got that to fit.

I used this guy’s Youtube video series as a guide and I will absolutely recommend them as being excellent for the rookies like me.

Not a lot of unnecessary talk and he goes way out of his way to keep his hands from blocking crucial moments so you can see what is supposed to happen. He shows you how to put the lower together with all the little special pin punches etc that everyone tries to recommend and how to do it without all that stuff.

I did it the hard way even though I did have to use a couple little punches here and there. His technique of putting the detentes and springs in for the Take Down pins without using any special tools was especially appreciated by yours truly.

I also had some trouble with the rear detente spring while trying to get the pin and spring installed in front of the stock tube but eventually got all that put together.

I’d like to give a big shout out for all the help you guys gave me plus an extra special shout out to a most excellent fellow for donating the Charge handle I was still missing.

Also a big shout out to ScouterGreg for a very large donation to the cause that I will use to get the sights and sling mounts I am still short on, probably even a cantilever scope mount.

Everything seems to work as it should so now it’s just a matter of snagging these little parts and then taking it out for a test run.

I do have one question though.

Since this was my first build, is it normal to have this many parts left over?

I’m kidding.

Thankfully I had a spare parts kit stashed away.

I wound up using the extra detente springs out of it after I screwed up the two you can see in the picture there.

But, there it is, one new EBR Poodle Shooter is born, it’s a .223/.556, 16 inch barrel Plain Jane Special.

All in all it literally cost me twice as much as you could go down and buy a cheapie AR for off the rack.

Just the Upper and the Bolt Carrier alone was enough to pay for one.

None of the parts were High Speed, Low Drag specialty parts as far as I know, they were all off the shelf and paid for with cash.

This is one of those little beauties that causes Liberals and Gun Grabbing Wannabe Tyrants to wet themselves and I built it that way on purpose.

Shall Not Be Infringed.

You rotten motherfuckers.

37 thoughts on “The Puzzle Is Missing A Couple Of Pieces

  1. Yea….these days you can buy a complete gun from an online shop for a lot less than you can spend gathering parts and DIYing it…..but it’s a lot more fun to do it yourself….plus if something
    ever goes wrong you will have some knowledge of what part goes where and how to start figuring out what broke and how to fix it.

    Liked by 1 person

    • Baby steps.
      I saw first hand that all that time and energy I spend dicking around with that Mini Lathe wasn’t wasted.
      I picked up a few valuable skills and a heightened ability to see small errors and have a much better understanding of how to go about fixing them.
      Eventually I would very much like to acquire some gunsmithing skills.


  2. “They use their tongues to decieve, the venom of snakes is under their lips, their mouths are full of bitterness and curses.
    In their paths are nothing but ruin and misery, the fear of God is not before their eyes, they have taken the hearts and minds of our leaders.
    They have recruited the rich and the powerful and they have blinded us to the truth.
    The human spirit is corrupted, why do we worship greed?
    Because outside the limit of our sight feeding off us, perched on top of us from birth to death, are our owners…our owners.
    They have us, they control us, they are our masters.
    Wake up, they’re all about you, all around you.”

    Liked by 1 person

  3. I have a full set of brass punches. I made them from assorted diameter screws, including toilet hold down bolts. Cut the head off (or shape it as desired), chuck the screw into a drill press, with machine running, file down to proper size. Use the extra long hold down bolt.

    This is inexpensive. Of course you could use brass rod but for the same result, less cost, plus a little fun in the shop, there you go.

    Liked by 1 person

      • Speaking of brass, when going to the range, whether you’re a loader or not, save your brass. If you’re not a loader, you can sell the once-fired to loaders for a reasonable price OR you can take them in to the local metals recycler and get paid for what you have. In my area, it’s $2 a pound last time (about 2 months ago) I went. A small load, I walked out with $100. Enough to buy a few boxes of ammo. Takes a bite out of the expense of shooting.

        Liked by 1 person

  4. checkout a place called stealth arms in ohio. when you looking for another project.
    i sure you would like a few of them to play with.
    a place near you called hooper arms or gun parts has the other parts needed to finish off your
    1911 project , they have sales now and then on kits and other parts.
    depending on the open range you have around you, either a low power optic of reflex sight
    back angled irons. magpul rifleman’s sling for 20 bucks will work just fine as well.
    best part about home built arms is they do not really know how many are out there.
    I also like c-products ss mags, aim surplus has the best prices I found so far on them.
    for 1911 mags i never had a problem with mecgar mags yet.
    and if you should help a few friends with their projects, charge them for electric. BUT TALK THEM
    THRU IT. let them build it themselves. don’t want to break any laws now do you ?

    Liked by 1 person

  5. Brother, I respect your build your own ar, but when m&p 15s (with a lifetime guarantee) are readily available for $500, I don’t understand the level off effort required.

    Liked by 1 person

  6. Well done, sir. Putting on my Captain Obvious hat in response to some other comments, the more you know about your weapon system, the better. When the shit show goes sideways, all the warranties in the word won’t mean dick. As has been said elsewhere, no one is coming to save you.

    Links to some good stuff–

    Liked by 1 person

  7. Good on you, Phil. It may be a few $$ more than “store bought” but most of the extra money you spent was for education and training.

    You’ll now find that your 2nd lower build will take about 30 minutes, your 3rd lower about 15 minutes. (FYI, a warning – if you build an AR-10 the detents, pins and springs perform exactly the same functions but some will be in different places than on an AR-15).

    And, since you know where and how all the parts fit, BUY SPARES. Especially detent pins and springs (Brownells used to offer a “Lost Parts Kit” for AR-15s which was perfect, no longer does for some reason but I’ve been bugging them to resume offering them). I’ve got 3 Stanley organizers packed with spare gun parts because there will come a time when they’re simply not available and “store bought” will not be an option. And, RE: spares – you can stock the exact parts you want rather than accept whatever the “store bought” builders want to put in the rifle. And, sales abound – Geissele, for example, puts a bunch of their FCGs (fire control groups,meaning triggers, hammers, springs and pins) on sale each major holiday, so do other parts suppliers.

    Up next: Building your own upper. You will need some armorer’s tools for that (and a torque wrench), figure about ~$125-150 for the better ones but good tools are a lifetime investment and no one can take the learning away from you.

    The big thing is: You know your own rifle. Now you need to learn how – and where – it shoots, with what ammo, from 1 yard to 400 (FYI, look up “sight offset). Don’t put that off – when you really need it is not the time to start learning it.

    Side note, RE: sights. Take a look at LPVOs (Low Power Variable Optics). Lots of different ones available from many scope makers, in different powers (1-4, 1-6, 1-8, 1-10) and configurations (front focal plane reticle, rear focal plane reticle, crosshair reticle, ACSS reticle, “Circle of Death reticle (the 65MOA circle&dot), MOA gradations, mildot gradations, illuminated reticle, non-illuminated, tritium-powered reticle, different MOA size dot, etc.) in all price ranges. And don’t forget a good set of BUIS (Back Up Iron Sights) just in case the optic takes a dive.

    Liked by 1 person

  8. I done several, but one stands out. The little spring under the disconnector fell out. Hammer follow every time. That’s when I learned the last little check after reassembly. Dry fire, then release the trigger. There should be a click as the hammer is caught by the disconnector. Mine didn’t, and there was the problem. I used the Marine Corp manual for my builds…. Pre-internet.

    Liked by 1 person

  9. I use PSA to get my build kits, and bought a batch of lowers back in 18 before the price bloomed biggly. If you buy a full kit you avoid a 10 % FET tax added to the cost of an assembled rifle.
    Once you have built a kit, you have a more full understanding of how everything interacts internally. They are like tater chips, bet you can’t do just one.

    Liked by 1 person

  10. Get a quick detatch sling mount that fits in the hole on either side of the upper or one that mounts on the hand guard. Any old nylon strap from a carry bag laying around the house will do fine. You can attach the other end to the slit in the butt stock. Black plastic wire ties are your friend here. They’re strong, quiet and effective. Slings are pricey but you can mitigate the cost without sacrificing reliability.

    Liked by 1 person

  11. Bear Creek is a great place to get uppers and the bolt carrier is usually included in the price. I just bought a 20 inch barreled upper with a side charging system, bolt carrier included in their labor day sale for $240 with free shipping. I don’t have any connection with them, just like their prices.

    Liked by 1 person

    • I paid WAY TOO MUCH for mine. $600 for the upper and $170 for the bolt carrier.
      Like I said, that right there was enough to buy a complete rifle.
      But, live and learn, this whole thing was meant to be a learning experience and it was.
      It was all bought local, with cash so there is no paper trail associated with it.
      It is mine all mine.
      Every bit of it was store bought so it’s all legal.


  12. If you look on amazon for “Jim VanMiddlesworth” your top two hits are the videos I used when I started adventuring into the world of boomstick assembly. Elwood is right: if you choose to DIY some more you’ll be completing lower builds from memory in less than 1/2 hour by your 3rd or 4th go-around.
    Uppers do require specialized tools & if you can’t borrow some then the Wheeler brand is a fairly budget friendly place to start with their “Wheeler Delta Series AR-15 Armorer’s Essentials Kit” but the armorers wrench in that kit gave me some grief & I use my cheapo NcStar basic wrench more often than the wheeler one. I’ve found over time that it’s usually more cost effective to just order a completed upper from PSA or a similar outfit than to build one from scratch, especially in the current market.
    Being fat & middle aged I’m not a high speed guy but I really like the Viking Tactics VTAC slings. Wife likes them too & people we shoot with are starting to adopt them as well.
    If you want to revisit your trigger down the road check out the Larue MBT. Hands down it’s the best upgrade I’ve done.
    Sights & optics get expensive quick so I try to wait until they go on sale. Magpul is the standard for BUS but other companies are making equally serviceable products such as Fab defense or even Ruger. The prices on red dots & scopes get obscene quickly. The bushnell TRS-25 is a reliable basic red dot & can be found for under $100 on amazon. Sightmark M-spec reflex sights have worked very well for me & being an older & chunkier design they’re inexpensive when you can find them. This specific model:
    Sightmark SM26005 Ultra Shot M-Spec. I have several & never had so much as hiccup from any of them & they keep zero.

    Liked by 1 person

      • Summer of 2019, I went thru 7k rounds. That’s when it was around .30 cents per. I’ve tightened up a bit since then, in purchasing and marksmanship. Btw, irons should do ya fine but if you want a quality optic for that, check out an ACOG by Trijicon. Mine’s 3.5x. Be careful though, Phil. This first build can lead to addiction and your wife will remind you constantly of your “disorder” or “sickness”.

        Liked by 1 person

        • I built a clone of an M16A4 a while back using, of course, an ACOG and am here to tell you that scope just flat-out works. Speaking as a guy who runs a 1-4x Nightforce in service rifle competition, the ACOG will do the job if you can.

          Do N-O-T skimp on optics. And I’ll second the recommendation for the LaRue trigger. A third or more of the price of a high end Geissel and easily 95% as good. I have a high-dollar Krieger-Millazo that isn’t as good as the LaRue.

          Liked by 1 person

  13. Huh, my most recent build, which is right next to my desk, looks pretty much just like that except I have MBUS sights and a sling. I need to get a mill like yours to finish off my 80% lowers.

    Liked by 1 person

  14. Phil, made it into the library today. Checked out this post on their PC, and Google/Jewtube had blocked playback of that video. Look it up on OperaMini now, and It’s ready to play, except for my p.o.s. phone! It’s a moot point anyways, that’s one of them evil black rifles, a Cat D gun here, for farmers and pest eradicators.

    Liked by 1 person

  15. It occurs to me that a short piece of small brass tube would help a lot with tapping in the bolt catch pin. I would try that on the next build, but I’m not doing any more of those.

    Liked by 1 person

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