This Reminds Me

I need to rig something up to replace the Mickey Mouse brake light switch they used on that damn Sprite.

When you push on the brake pedal, the brake pedal lever releases the switch and THEN the lights come on. The linkage is sloppy and it has a tendency to bounce around so the brake lights flash on and off randomly, especially when you hit a bump.

Here’s the Rinky Dink switch.

It installs at #9 in the diagram and the top of the lever arm releases the switch when it pivots back.

I’m pretty sure I can come up with something a little better than this though.

Gotta give the redneck who did this some credit. It probably works until you get a bunch of mud and crap in it.

14 thoughts on “This Reminds Me

  1. Measure the distance with some accuracy, between the firewall (I hope it is solid,) and the shiny bend in the brake pedal near the topmost point.. Fabricate a 90 degree bend Z shape bit of spring steel or other very rigid steel, allowing for a NO (normally open) momentary switch that has a longer nose sticking out. A modern door open dome light switch will work with both contacts out back (not the old single to ground type.
    .
    Bend to length of the measured distance plus amount of switch that will protrude) Drill hole to mount switch and 2 holes to run self tappers or if you can reach the other side, normal bolts. Move the batting out of the way and bolt that in, then adjust the depth hook up the wires already there and you are good to go. Had to make one of these for an old Jaguar, worked fine.

    Liked by 1 person

    • We’re talking brakes and the alert to those behind you, which is safety stuff. I think I follow what you’re saying, so a significant pressure or change in brake pedal distance could warp this setup. Before anyone tries this, a diagram should be given to make sure no one is harmed!

      Hopefully I’ve misread and my apologies, if so.

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      • Dave, I have been a mechanic for over forty years now and have quite literally had almost every single bolt on that car off at least once since I got it in 1988.
        I am very confident in my abilities to mount a brake light switch.

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  2. That’s how us country folk do all de time. ‘Cept when the tranny broke. I had to take it out myself in order to move to the front of the line at the shop. Being a longtime member of a small podunk Catholic community where all the tombstones in the graveyards are mostly limited to roughly 60 or so last names…everywhere since 1820 does have it’s advantages. Btw, some of us still have the original brick sidewalks.

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  3. The return spring may be weak. If that is like the Triumph the pedal in the full up position activated the switch so it is open. When the pedal is pressed that closes the circuit turning on the light and when released the spring holds the pedal in the full up position.

    Or you need to top off the Lucas electrical smoke.

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  4. Can ya build up the top of the brake pedal arm forward side above the pivot shaft? A piece of channel slid over it & thru bolted oughta do it. You could put a cotter pin safetied bolt where that pin #26 goes for the return spring. Are the pivot bushings worn too? Doesn’t look like a whole lotta switch button sticking out… may be some schmutz in there binding it up a bit too. Couple shots of quick dry contact cleaner might give you a tad more throw to the switch and allow for a couple more threads worth of adjustment….

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    • I may have described it wrong.
      The top of the pedal arm in it’s normal position holds the switch button in. When you push on the brake pedal the top of the arm pivots back to push the master cylinder rod in and releases the switch button, causing the switch to close and the brake lights to come on.

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  5. Motorcycle brake switches are weatherproof and durable.

    Japanese electronics are pretty good quality.
    Have a look at some bikes to see different mounting options.

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