Progress On The Smithy With Bonus Video!

Yes, I have been kinda busy.

I tore into this thing some yesterday and started in on it.

It didn’t take too long to identify some issues either.

That is the nut for the Lead Screw.

Just kinda hangin’ out and floppin’ around doing nothing.

That hole in the center is for the mounting bolt that was missing.

Bonus issue, while it had been flopping around, it damaged the end of the threads on the Lead Screw.

I had to tear the lead screw out, take the apron off, clean all the rust and dirt off of everything and start fixing the rolled over starting thread on the lead screw with a tiny triangular file.

Then I had to turn the nut around, put it in the vise and start the threads from the back side, run it in and out the other side, to clean up the damaged starting thread in the nut.

I cleaned and oiled it all up, found a metric bolt to fit the hole in the nut and put it all back together. I just got finished with that.

This is after a whole bunch of cleaning and lubricating everything.

Then there was the drive belt issue.

This was a fiasco worthy of it’s own post. I will cut it as short as possible. It took me two hours to find the belt diagram.

The “Belts” that were on it were more like glorified “O” Rings with a about a Durometer of 70 at least. They were also old and stiff. One of them snapped in half when I fired it up.

A whole bunch of internet searching led me to a list of V-Belts that supposedly fit.

Six phone calls, three different parts houses later, I now have six belts that don’t fit a damn thing I own and out of the 3 on the machine that are working, one isn’t right because it’s a 1/2 wide belt instead of the 3/8’s belt it calls for.

Being late Saturday afternoon at this point, I was tired of messing with it and went with what I had.

It would have been nice if they had included a diagram for the belts on that sticker….

But,

That was before I went and picked up the one I had ordered from NAPA, that was supposed to be there at 3, and they were supposed to call me and let me know it was in, and before I got irritated and drove over there, only to find out they had gotten the wrong one anyway.

That’s where I wound up with the 1/2 inch one that they actually had on hand.

GRRRR.

While I was there though I just happened to remember that they carry the Red Scotchbrite pads that no one else in town does so I got 3/4’s of a box of those while I was there. All they had.

So after I get the belts on, I fire the thing up and am most proud of myself, until something started nagging me that something ain’t right.

The lathe chuck was spinning the correct direction but when I switched over to the mill, that was spinning the wrong way.

Much consternation and confusion followed.

There is a Forward/Reverse switch on this thing. I flipped it to Reverse, hit the button and all I got was a loud buzzing noise.

I tried it several times.

Figuring I have found an electrical problem and not wanting to deal with it at the moment, I moved on.

I got the head to raise and lower smoothly. I lubed everything I could find that had the little oiler buttons on it until I saw liquid coming out.

Some of which looked downright toxic.

Ewwwe.

Working things back and forth to get the oil where it needs to be and then flushing the Yuk out with fresh oil.

All the while cleaning the nasty off this thing.

The table is going to be a real work out.

I went to move that and found this,

Works great going in, the shaft backs out coming back.

I haven’t messed with that yet. I had the whole front of that off while I was working on the Lead Screw but whatever is supposed to be holding that in is on the other end.

I’m going to take the whole table off anyway to clean that rust off and I will find whatever is going on with the screw at that point.

After I got the Lead screw back together I turned the thing on to see if the drive mechanism worked right. It did and after it moved a few inches I stopped it, decided what the heck and hit that reverse button again. Hit the start button and off it went!

MAGIC!

More than likely corroded/dirty contacts actually.

Now the Mill cutter shaft is turning the correct direction and I can switch it back and forth by flipping the switch.

Anyways, here’s the quick video I shot to prove this thing works.

Need I say more?

10 thoughts on “Progress On The Smithy With Bonus Video!

    • No wonder that Hillary wants Assange dead, he released her super-secret Cederq tapes too. I’m lucky that my phone can’t play that stuff. So lucky.

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  1. Congrats Phil, killer that you could clean it up and fire it up with expected possible issues, just not knowing what issues. I’d say SCORE!!!!!! Good on ya, its payback for all the help you’ve been to a lot of people in the last 6-8 months.

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  2. Yay! So far, just storage scunge. Not beaten up by crazed monkeys with hammers and stripped of all small parts before spending years outside half-submerged in a mudhole. The local vendor term for that is “good shape.”

    I also notice a lack of buggered bolt and screw heads, no missing Alemite oiler balls, no milling cutter tracks or drill pecker tracks in the work table…

    Every now and then you ought to peek out the garage door and see if the SMOG is incoming!

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  3. OK Phil you used “Ewwwe” in you post, i have done a lot of research and only people wearing skinny jeans use that word. Not a good visual. Looking forward to the u tube channel.

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  4. If ANYTHING I was able to pick up for free worked first try I would be shocked beyond belief. This is long experience talking.

    My inclination would be to do the total dis-assembly, cleaning and re-assembly first, then check it works right. take pictures of everything before of course. As to the switches, go get some Deoxit, any electronic parts stores will have it (assuming there are any left where you live). Squirt some of that on the switch contacts, relay contacts and whatnot let it soak a bit, actuate them a few times then wipe off what you can with a clean cloth. I have managed to get car door switches working again just getting some of that stuff into the toggle wells, same goes for delicate wafer switches in electronics gear.

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