Thank You Jesus, For A Perfectly Timed Dishwasher Malfunction!

I know, you are wondering why in the world would I be happy that our dishwasher decided to act up earlier this evening.

I’m not happy, I’m ECSTATIC!

Make yourself comfortable and I will tell you why.

As some of you may know, I have been wanting a truck for a while now.

This has been the subject of much discussion around here lately.

The Wifely Unit, being the most awesome wife on the planet, finally caved in and told me I could get one here a little while back, with conditions.

It couldn’t be some old beat up piece of shit that parts are hard to find for.

Straight to the heart that lady.

It couldn’t be a jacked up 4X4 that tires cost a small fortune to replace.

She basically informed me that it would be acceptable if I found a little pickup maybe with a canopy, that got good gas mileage and wasn’t forty years old.

So I took the bit in my teeth and ran hard.

I have been scouring Craigslist every night for weeks.

The more I looked, the more I found but what I was finding in my general price range was pretty discouraging.

Branded titles, a quarter of a million mile rigs, questionable engines, bad transmissions, beat to shit “Work Trucks” and my favorite of all, “Mechanics Specials”.

You get the drift.

Beaters that people were wanting serious money for.

So I started sending her links to potential disasters and kept getting rejected left and right.

I sent her one the other day that wasn’t too bad, a 2000 Something Ford Ranger that ran good, wasn’t beat to shit, had a canopy and a clean title.

She replied to my text quite succinctly with “Keep Looking” because it was way the hell outside Portland about twenty miles.

The more of these I looked at, the more I realized that while a little 4 banger 5 speed fuel sipper would be OK, they ain’t a “Truck”.

Know what I mean?

You can’t haul shit in them because they are a 1/4 ton pickup truck.

I finally realized, I wanted a damn truck.

So after she rejected that last one, I told her this.

I said look, I am SIXTY years old now. This could very well be THE LAST rig I buy if I can find something decent.

I think the light came on then.

In the mean time, after six or seven denials, I told her that these were the only things I was going to find in this price range so she broke down and told me I could spend maybe a little more money.

So today after I got home, I fiddle farted around a little bit, set my narrow little ass down in the recliner, caught a quick bit of news and then hit Craigslist for another certain dose of disappointment and heartbreak.

It started out the same as it always has so I changed up and started looking at Chevy trucks under $5.000.

Page after page and then I found it.


I could hardly believe my eyes.

Lots of pictures, less than a half hour away and an actually decent price.

So I tell her and show her.

Then I call and talk to the guy. He tells me about all the work that’s been to it, he’s retired, was going to keep it because he had just bought it a few months ago but found his dream car, bought it and then HIS WIFE, told him the truck had to go.

Two serious problems here.

One, I need The Wifely Unit to go with me in case I get it so I can bring it back and

TWO, it’s juuuust about dinner time.

I made arrangements to go see it after work tomorrow and hung up.

Then it started eating at me. With my luck the damn thing won’t be there tomorrow because I see this ad has been up for 6 days already.

In the mean time, The Wifely Unit has been in the kitchen doing her thing.

This is where Jesus cut me a huge break.

Pretty soon she comes out mad as a wet hen because she can’t make dinner because when she ran the dishwasher, for some reason the soap didn’t get dissolved and it was all over the inside of the thing.

Can you hear the gears turning at this point?

Now I have the time and a way to get over to look at this truck today instead of tomorrow.

So I call the guy back, make arrangements, go get the money just in case and off we go.

Oh yeah, it’s THE ONE alright.

After a quick Look See and a test drive I tell her I am getting it. Instead of waiting, she decides to come home because traffic is heavy and it is going to be dark in twenty minutes.

I went in, made the deal and chatted with the guy for a while, a really, really nice guy.

So ya ready?

Daddy scored Big today.

Are you ready for this?

This is the actual mileage on the 1989 Chevy Scottsdale truck I just picked up.

Even better?

The original owners kid ran it out of oil and seized the engine.

They put a used engine in it that only had 60,000 miles on it. Shortly after that, the transmission shit the bed and the guy parked in his garage for 3 years,. HIS WIFE, told him to fix it or get rid of it.

It was about ten miles North of me originally.

They guy I bought it from, bought it from him, had the automatic transmission , with Overdrive, completely rebuilt to the tune of over $1200, that I have the receipt for and is still under warranty, fixed a whole bunch of other shit and then sold it to me.

The thing has a Throttle Body Injected SB 350 that runs like a top, has good tires and brakes, roll up windows, VINYL FLOOR MATTING and the A/C even works.

The inside of the bed has been sprayed with Rhino Liner too.

In other words, it’s a real truck.

This thing also has something that I have never even heard of on a pick up truck, a rear window defroster.

You know, the little lines in the glass?

Even that works!

When it came time to pay up I told the guy flat out that I wasn’t even going to try and dicker on the sale price.

I was also right on trusting my gut to go over there tonight instead of waiting. Another guy had called a couple days ago but said he couldn’t get over there to see it until this weekend. Five minutes after I called the seller to see about going over there tonight instead of tomorrow, that guy had called up wanting to come over right away. The seller told him that he had someone on the way already, (me) and that he would have to wait. Pissed that guy off I guess.

I think it was a pretty good deal for $2995.

The only things wrong with this truck that I have seen, that the guy told me about up front, are the headliner falling down and the Dome Light doesn’t work.

That’s it.

It has a trailer brake controller under the dash and a Fifth Wheel/Camper light hook up on the inside of the bed on the drivers side.

It even has a trailer hitch ball on the freshly painted rear bumper.


Holy crap am I happy!

No busted windshield, all of the dash gauges work, their isn’t wind blowing through door seals and it starts up just by turning the key.

There isn’t a dent in it anywhere either.

The Silver paint is faded but that is to be expected for a truck that is 31 years old.

So you may have noticed a repeating theme throughout this tale of guys who’s wives keep telling them to get rid of their rigs right?

Oh yeah, first thing out of her mouth. The Caballero has to go.

Sure honey, right after I clean it up.

Maybe next Summer.

57 thoughts on “Thank You Jesus, For A Perfectly Timed Dishwasher Malfunction!

  1. You just flat scored on the Deal of the Century, Phil! About time your ship came in, instead of the tide…
    Couldn’t happen to a nicer Old Coot, either!!
    (I scored similarly on my 34′ Beaver Motor Home, but that’s a tale for a different year.)


  2. Hey Phil– congrats on the new truck!! If you need small parts down the road I have a couple of trucks that vintage (88–94). So remember me when you need free parts!! Still haven’t got that 62 ford going. I just bought another truck– a 2005 chevy work truck with diesel engine for $4000. 150,000 miles on it!!


    • My late uncle worked in the parts department at a Chevy dealer
      for decades. His workshed looked like a parts store from all the
      shit he “inherited.” I was driving a Ford product but if a friend
      or family member needed Chevy parts, I would send them to
      my uncle Ed. Half of my family would have been hung as
      horse thieves if they lived in the 19th century!


  3. Damn son! You scored bigly! Proud of ya! looks like a good truck and yes you got it for a steal! Now start hauling stuff… it is a half ton but that don’t mean nothing. I guess I can stop looking at trucks around here then.


    • If the cassette player works I need to bring my Merle Haggard, George Jones, Tammy Wynette, Dolly Parton, Johnny Cash, etc cassettes to sit shot gun and listen to old country…


      • Cedrex, while you and Phil are singing harmony with Dolly Parton, you’ll be happy to muse about her ‘woke’ attitude, now that nearly every celebrity feels the need to openly take a knee.


        • She wasn’t woke when she sang with Cole Porter and after, just recently she has been woked. I volunteer to unwoke her but it would require some extensive, intensive physical conditioning on my part…. oh yeah.


          • Cederq, that is disgusting. Poor old Woke Dolly Parton’s dolly-bits may have been too many times around the odometer for your planned frenzy.


            • One can dream John can’t they? For an older babe, she has keep it together… I was gonna ask ya what you up so late, but then realized it is morning or there about for you. I can’t sleep, it is 2:20am on the Oct 30. Damn bitch Insomnia is a cruel, heartless cunt…


  4. A truck in that condition goes for twice what you paid all day long here in Wisconsin. Bonus for being pre 1995 it is exempt from bullshit emissions testing. You did real good.


  5. Good score That bed liner looks like the one on my 98 F-150…….you can’t hurt it, wears like iron.

    You may want to add a transmission cooler if you plan on hauling anything heavy, and please…….put it in ‘3’ if you are doing heavy hauling,

    I overhauled a TON of the 700R4’s in my day, most died under heavy loads in OD.



  6. Hey Phil Congrats. I don’t think you could of done better for the price. No power windows or locks to go bad. Simple throttle body system,basic computer system,proven drive line,great parts availability. 15 inch tires are one of the cheapest to buy. Looks real clean under the hood,dependable small block V-8. I’m happy you got something you don’t have to start out working on. Happy motoring,Allan


  7. Huge score guy. Bench seat is awesome – I miss those so much. With your skill set, you should keep that thing running for quite a while. Not a car guy, but I know what I like and ‘Olde School Trucks’ one of this things. 8′ bed I think – nice indeed. Trucks are for hauling stuff.

    My truck is a GMC 2000 with odometer reading just over 200,000. I hope it makes it another 200,000. With the cost of trucks these days, it will likely be my life-time truck too.


    • Anon, I have a 2000 Chevy C3500 just ticked over 265,000 miles, same engine and tranny. I have hauled some large trailers with it across the US and it is babied, but it is still a truck. It is my “Life-time” truck, I don’t plan on a new expensive as shit truck. Besides, it is paid for, has the same simple throttle body injector, no elec wondows or locks, and has no air bags!


      • I’m glad to hear your truck is treating you right Cederq. The GMC I described above does have electric windows, locks and air bags. The motor on the passenger side window is a bit slow and should be replaced before it dies with window down. I’ve owned it for 17 years now – I’m happy with it.

        Phils new truck reminds me of my original pick-up, a ’76 Dodge Adventurer. 318 c.i. engine, simple dog ass engine with space under the hood to work on. Fuse box was in your face – open the glove compartment and the panel was right there – no upside down trapeze artist head rushes there, lol. Benchseat, metal headliner, triangular ‘vent’ windows and roller crank. Simple and awesome. Only reason I traded it in was I was a new Dad and no way could the kid take Texas summers without A/C.


        • Anon, I would use silicon lubricant on the window tracks and lithium grease on the hinge points on the window regulator before replacing the electric motor. Those GM electric DC motors are just about bomb proof, but the tracks when dry and caked will slow a window down. (GM mechanic at one time, auto electrical guy) , now, GM switches are a pisser in their own… they work well until the damn things break. I liked Mopar Trucks, cars and vans pre-1972 and had a few, after 72 they royally fucked the engines and interiors of ’em.


  8. Diligence pays off! Monster Score! You did well, no way that truck would sell for that in Virginia Beach. They are PROUD of their junk out here!


  9. That truck will do anything you need it too. Most of the 3/4 ton trucks I see around here aren’t really needed and most 4WD vehicles have never been off the pavement.


  10. Yes sir, you did a good deal! I was expecting 5 grand. I didn’t recognize the dash. I was thinking 92. Cranks and no carpet for the win! That is amazing.

    I got the fuel injection spider on my 99 Sub done last Saturday and I’ve been running like a moron since. I’ll try and post some about it this week. It’s just like yours, cranks and rubber mats! Exactly like I like ’em.


  11. Looks great, drove one like that for a while, only issue I had was the trans crapped out at high mileage but like others have said pulling heavy trailers beat the trans up


  12. What a beautiful Truck…
    That is a gem you have found. I have to agree on not minding old faded paint on a car or truck that is 20+ years old. Main reason is that if you are looking at original paint you know for sure what that vehicle has seen during it’s lifetime. As sweet as that truck looks you KNOW it was never wrecked/abused/neglected.
    In Texas nowadays, a truck like that would probably be put up for auction in the town square with cash only bids allowed. In the end it would probably get triple if not more than what you paid.
    I drive a 2012 F250 Diesel and if I could find an 80’s vintage that did not have all of the EPA stuffings under the hood, and in as good of condition as that one. I would pay triple what I paid for mine.

    Great Dishwasher present…

    MSG Grumpy


  13. Phil- What a fine deal! I just moved back to TX and looked like crazy for a truck. Had to settle for 2008 Tahoe. Prices are crazy. My first Chevy was a 3/4 ton first year of version like yours. (88-89?) Had a few issues due to new engineering but sold me on GM. Got 18 mpg and would run a hole in the wind. Had aggrivation with tail light bulb holders. Got into habit of bumping up on brake pedal when park to shut off brake lights. Stuff like that but it was still a great truck. Also- there’s a trick with the stereo control where you mash a couple of buttons simultaneously that improve the sound. I don’t think GM told people about it. I’m glad for you. Excellent find.


  14. Way to go Phil, about damn time life did ya’ a real solid. My dishwasher died about 18 months ago and with just me living here now I can’t see getting another one.


  15. Score! Man, I felt your pain going through Craigslist hell. Searched for a tow vehicle for the boat for months. Looked all over New England. Finally found a decent 2004 Chevy Blazer with 100,000 miles for $2500. Put another $!500 in it, new tires, battery, and new fuel lines. Did just fine towing the boat last winter. Even the AC blew cold. All I had to do when I got back from FL was to change the front brake pads and give it an oil change. It’s going to be nice to have a 4X4 this winter in the snow.

    Liked by 1 person

  16. Woo Hoo! Congrats!
    Phil you scored a great set of wheels there. Very practical. Can’t beat these year and model Chevy’s. Parts are so cheap its awesome. Easy to fix too.

    If you care, here’s everything I can think of to share with you & what shit to expect. You know a lot of this shit anyways, it’s the nuances in the chevys as they age always good to hear about i think.

    Those 89 headlights suck, until you use a relay and some wire mods to keep the low beams on when you switch to hi beams, run a heavy gauge wire from the battery or alt positive post, to the the relay. I run a relay for hi and low beams. Shortens up the head light harness wiring dramatically.
    The factory light switch doesn’t have the amp rating to carry all four beams at once. Barely handles two beams. One truck caught fire under the dash.

    Got 3 myself, a K2500 super duty and two K1500’s – 2 1989 and one 1990 models, almost every part swaps between them but MAP sensors, TPS and headlights, those changes are: 88-89 same, 90 – 94 same. Above 94, the trucks went down hill in simplicity/reliability, thus more problems/cost etc.

    18 years time owning/fixing:

    This first, works very well and worth every penny: A TransDapt TB spacer, (best one out of three brands I’ve tried, cheapest too, go figure), a 50 series FlowMaster muffler, preferably in SST if they are still producing them, if you replace everything from Y pipe back, if your going full custom pipe, put the muff far back as possible.
    An OEM replacement MSD coil, Bosh Platnium4 plugs is an imperative no matter what, plus the pass side rear cyl won’t foul like with regular plugs, and they will work well for years, take to being cleaned very well also.
    You will have gobs more low end torque and 3-5 mpg better fuel milage with this set up. Pay its self back in a jiffy.
    Get the biggest tranny cooler on you can find, don’t skimp, double your 700R life easy, heat is their enemy, they got skimpy cheesy clutchpack seals. Put new ATF, filter, in it no matter what.

    The factory power steering pulleys have an angled scarf joint, about 100 – 150,000 they develop a nasty tweet/squeal, it begins when the belt is cold, you hear that, you need to replace the pump pulley, it will eat serpentine belts in weeks or less otherwise, (happened on all three plus another I owned 10 years earlier). Usually the belts start to fail before you hear the pulley, the edges of the belts fray and ribs disappear, and long chunks are missing. Get a new pulley of course. Think last time they cost $14. A chevy puller, the little socket shaped one, sometimes works, so you don’t need to remove the pump et all.
    A proper running belt system will get you 50-100 thousand miles from a hi quality belt. When you set the pulley, go the effort to line it up with the crank pulley using a straight edge.

    Adding more power for cheap, is an injector riser, goes under the 3 screw mount holds the two injectors, basically a 1/4 thick gasket, this works real nice. I think half inch would be even better.
    A new quality water temp sensor. No need for an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, the stock one is fine, always replace the regulator gasket if its all you do. They weep and fuck with milage.

    An extra – ground lead from alternator body or bracket to fire wall on pass side next to the plastic cover where the fuel pump relays are located, there’s a ground lug there. Save melting your fusible link from resistance these old trucks develop, I use #6 welding cable and solder the staked copper lugs. Important PM measure.

    The fuel pump typically shits the bed at passing 100 grand miles. It’s worth the grief tax alone to R&R this, one of those best to do it regardless things. Shopping for this its worth the effort, fuel pump prices are getting stupid. Repeatedly PartsGeek has the best price, they have very good prices on many chevy truck bits, have all the good OEM replacement and free shipping.
    Fuel pump pressure is only approx 8-10 lbs, requires a return, the OEM braided lines all rust out, easy and cheap to replace with Fuel Injector rubber nose and smooth fuel line clamps, I double up on the clamps, get the real fuel injector hose, the special hose that goes for $12 to $18 a foot. Replace the fuel filter religiously, those truck gas tanks have a big ten gallon square plastic baffle pan the pump pick-up sets in, all sorts of clam bones and other toothsome goodies accumulate outside the baffle, you got the tank out its worth it to flush it out. The fuel tank straps rust on the cleat end that inserts into a keyhole on the frame, they are cheap to get new ones. Waterproof grease the fuck out of the O-ring fuel pump access plate after assembly, smear it on generously. The rear tires throw a ton of water and slush up on top with the road salt. gets trapped and the retainer assembly rusts out, road water/crud bypasses the O-ring into the tank. Make sure the filler neck ground strap is good too.

    The ECM is particular about water temp, R&R the thermostat yearly: 190 F is OEM, 180-185 is the higher performance temp, loses fuel milage, but power is noticeably more powerful. 195F is too high except for the coldest winter like sub zero. I use a piece of cardboard, about half coverage front of the radiator if its gets a real long cold spell

    3 inch exhaust, Y pipe to tail, single exit pipe works best.
    Quality crankcase ventilation/vacuum valve is good.

    KYB high pressure nitrogen shocks give the best ride and handling on these trucks. Tried all the brands, believe me, these hands down are top shelf, the others not even close. Bilstein’s are the worst after Rancho.
    Use bronze type NeverSeize on the caliper slider pins, don’t use hard ceramic pads, only medium or soft. Rotors will love you.
    Use only OEM A arm bushings, same for cab mounts. Polyurethane=sucks. New cab mounts are worth replacing, big ride and handling Improvement.
    Make good all – ground straps.

    One trick I learned involves the TBI getting sloppy. The TB’s on these run the throttle plate shafts thru a bare aluminum bore, they all get sloppy, the fuel map in the EMC can’t compensate for the air leaks past, and fuel milage goes south, idle hunts around, you get like 10-12 mpg, loss of performance, the idle air valve wears out trying to make up for the varying extra 02 as the throttle shaft moves, if you replace this, get a high grade TB. Rebuilts, not all have repairs shaft bores.
    One fix is u can get a sleeve kit, comes with tooling and bushings etc., but they sell at usury prices, over a $100 bucks for a couple brass bushings and a drill.
    Machined my own bushing’s, line bored them after insertion, with a reamer, the throttle shaft gets worn too, can’t get replacements, so I used orings and precision washers as an air seal, both ends, you got to fuss a bit with some metal fab tricks to compensate for washers and O-rings thickness, machined the bushings from Aluminum Bronze.
    Holley sells a very good new replacement, the Holley costs about $600-$700, too much for my wallet. Hear they work real nice, better than new, more power, a larger set of venturi’s and plates.

    If you want a sweet running, stupid solid streetable power, here’s what I did and was astonished with the improvement in fuel milage and usable power. 18-19mpg on the K1500’s.

    1, Davis Unified Ignition HEI distributer, none better in my book, but a Summit Racing OEM replacement works great too, even a junkyard HEI Distributor, OEM AC Delco stuff is pretty good from Cnevy Performance, a drop in complete dist from them was $150 or so, has a better module, longer/improved dwell and advance curve, adjustable vac adv.
    The Davis Unified is like the Rolex of HEI distributors, they really are worth the buck for me.

    2, Two BBL Holly 350 CFM – electric choke, Avenger series model, ( the OEM throttle and KD cables and brackets work, u got to adjust things a bit, easy stuff for you), the 500cfm Holley works too, but the 350 cfm gives you gorrilla torque and awesome zero to 50 WOT acceleration, great hi-way regular driving performance, crisp and instantaneous.

    4, Vacuum plug assortment

    5, 700R Transmission shift controller kit, I got the Painless Wiring kit. Eliminates that idiotic 4th gear upshift and lugging at 35mph, add a kick down-upshift improvement spool/spring for the valve body is a good mod too.
    If anything I’m being conservative, the seat of the pants dyno says 100 HP increase, streetable increase, from idle to redline.

    6, the OEM timing chain all need R&R, they are nylon cam gears and a non roller chain, they streaaaatch bad, gets u terrible combo of cam/ign timing, if you get an adjustable crank gear, go for retard cam setting, (low end grunt setting, I always transpose the adv/retard equation).

    7, Re-set lifters, running warmed up, back each rocker off till rocker all the way off the valve, let set for a minute so lifters pumps down, then crank in just till clicking stops, wait one minute, adjust as needed to keep it just zero lash point, wait one minute, then crank nut down 3/4 turn. Done. Well worth the hours work. Roller tip chromemoly steel aftermarket rockers with groove balls and poly locks are worth the $ and fit under the centerbolt covers.

    If your door hinges are worn, I developed the only hinge pin/bearing kit that works, full length, lead impregnated steel bearings and drill rod pins, with grease fittings and captive nuts.
    Send you a set for freebies. Usually the drivers side craps out first very typical Chevy problem.

    On the 4WD trucks, they handle best with 1 degree toe in, zero camber. You can do this with a digital 2ft level that has an artificial zero button, and a tape measure with a full length of 2 inch conduit, and two people. When you replace your upper ball joints, do both ball joints, but, buy a whole aftermarket upper A arm, they come with ball joints and bushings for almost the cost of ball joints alone, get a new set of adjuster bolt/cams, and it will outlive you, smear everything with bronze NeverSeize. PartsGeek seems to regularly have the best price on these bits.

    The diff pinion crush collar under the u joint yoke has a lot of travel remaining, the rear ends on these trucks all need pinion depth resetting. I use a 3/4 drive socket, a piece of two by four between seat and brake pedal to lock diff up for the yoke nut, specs say 25 ftlbs, what seems works best is a 1/8-1/4 turn at a time, drive it, on-off the gas pedal, when the back lash clunk is barely perceptible, your good to go.

    Want to get awesome traction, the TruTrac planetary rear diff posi unit rocks. I figured out a formula for setting pinion depth, using a 12 inch set of calipers, gets you almost dead nuts heel to toe ring pinion set, fine adjustments using yellow lead. Most times its so close the first check I don’t fuss the rest.

    The parking cables truly suck on these trucks. My strategy is buy new parts, put them on for inspection and remove after inspection sticker, save for next year. The brake backing plate to bare park cable section is what freezes up and needs removing. No matter what I’ve tried they always rust the fuck up solid, except for this technique. These rear brakes really like them some all new springs and gidgets. Cheap bits and worth the proportional braking effects.

    Replace the leaf spring separators, you can do it all on the truck, just drop the diff, frame up on jack-stands, floor jack under pumpkin. Great cheap trick, no more rear sideways skitter – bump steer, slow speed bump harshness gone, high speed bumps is Caddilac smooth, puts roll center back to normal. Big ride improvement.

    The steering boxes sometimes require adjustment, just a tiny bit, less as possible. The rag joints can get sloppy, this is a good steering fix. New cab mounts help steering, gets the cab back to the correct steer shaft geometry.

    Oh yeah, the TBI hates 10% or higher ethanol fuel, water builds up in the little water separator ring inside the injector bodies, fuel lines, TV galleys etc, trucks run like total fucking shit, they buck knock fart and go to full timing retard, emergency full rich. Sometimes you got to reset the brain box thru the obd port. Go to pure gasoline if you got it out your AO. Yuuuge improvement.

    Done all this over 18 years driving this early TB injection model range. One of the K1500’s got everything above, plus a nice used engine, along with all new not rebuilt: Alt, water pump, radiator, starter, fan clutch, rear drum/springs, front calipers/rotors, every steering part & bushings, fuel tank & pump, wiper linkage bushings, all the fuel/ign parts from dist to coil, sensors, coolant hoses, belts, radiator. Running it now for 7 years, except for a 4wd front diff thermal actuator crapping out in a snowstorm its been 100% reliable. Built it for the wife so she wouldn’t be stranded.

    The money saved is the finest part of this. No bank loan, cheap plates tax and insurance, think its $36 a month each truck on compulsory insurance. $45 a year for plates/taxes. I get 14 – 16 mpg up and down these mountains.

    Looks like you got a honey of a truck.
    Hope its a help for you.

    Molan Labe muh chevy trucks

    designed an intake manifold using two 2 bbl 350 cfm Holleys, set inline, throttle shafts aligned end to end with cam centerline, not cross ways as conventional manifolds do. This config opened a world of performance possibilities, without using a stupid high rise plenum.

    Reasoning here is long, minimal turn radius, isolated small volume runners, equal length, 2 cylinders per throttle bore, with as equal intake vacuum dwell/pulse order between cylinders. Formula is after 8 degrees of runner turn, flow and cfm losses occur. My design is as straight as physically possible short of an open single plenum chamber. There’s true 180 degree intake effects happening. Designed an 180 degree tuned header too. Fabricated a similar manifold and tapered 4-2-1 ex header for a 2.3 pinto engine as a test bed/concept, works very well.

    I believe the sm black chevy design will produce ungodly low-midrange torque and volumetric efficiency with some runner development. An HEI distributer just fits. The manifold bolts on with no mods, other than throttle/kick down cable and fuel feed mods, intended for use on a stock configured engine, or mild cam/ex hp upgrades.
    Like to talk with you about this. Seriously.
    Its a big market.
    I been studying up on my aluminum, sand and lost wax investment casting skills. I got a Ducati desom 2 valve air-cooled engine cylinder head design I hope to cast and machine at some point, so I got a lot of stuff that crosses over to the V-8 manifold.
    But I don’t have any formal engineering education.

    Liked by 1 person

  17. Those trucks will go to 300k+ miles easily if they’re maintained and the rust doesn’t get them. They have their faults but about as solid of a truck as you’ll find. Sad thing is they’re becoming popular in the restoration and vehicle investment circles and the prices are getting really high compared to just a few years ago. In my area a truck you’d have paid 2k for a few years ago are now nearly triple that.


  18. Phil – You are smarter than the average bear and lucky to boot. That was a very nice purchase but the “smart” part is that you checked with wifey unit ahead of time. My tale of woe is very close to yours in that I found “the car” I wanted, grabbed my BIL to ride shotgun and drive it back, then went and bought it. Ahem, without pre informing the wife. That was 2 years ago and she is still pissed and won’t ride in it. Never mind the car hauled a trailer to AZ and back to MI without an issue and averages 35 MPG (diesel VW). Now I figure if I sell both my regular car, and the wagon, then buy an SUV that covers both functions (drive around town and tow), with pre-approval, maybe I can redeem myself. Like I said, ye is smarter than us regular bears.


  19. Oh, one more comment – scour the local parts stores and see if you can find any new old stock square sealed beam headlights. Buy a set only if made in USA or Germany, DO NOT buy anything made in China, they won’t last 6 months, I know this first hand as all sealed beams are now made in China and I mean ALL of them. I scored a half a dozen round 7″ at an auction made in USA, on the shelf for an older car under some day restoration. .


  20. Congrats Bro! That’s a sweet sweet ride for the price… ‘specially these days… after Obongos Cash for Clunkers, the market on older trucks like that vanished or, as you said went sky-high… VERY hard to find an older vehicle like that… might even be EMP Proof?


  21. Phil, the Pretty Daughter named my F150 Green Lariat “Lawrence Cecil Greenjeans”. He thinks he’s Lawrence of Arabia but he’s actually Larry of Suburbia. Tag’s say “Cecil” and they have gotten me out of tickets as the LEO’s are usually laughing when they walk up and find good old boy me behind the wheel. (Who in his right mind would try fleeing and eluding with “Cecil” tags.)

    You have to come up with a better name. You know that the youngest Chevrolet brother was named “Gaston”, he won Indy in 1920 and a bunch of major board track races. That would work right there.



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