Female Logic

It says oil  right on the label.


Apparently dude in the background there isn’t mechanically inclined either.

Wanna see my shocked face?

19 thoughts on “Female Logic

  1. actually, home boy be lookin at her about to scream ” bitch! what you doing, that shit be fo cooking that yard bird, not putting in yo car!” ” you see 10/30 on that fuckin bottle ho?!”


  2. Always wondered what would happen if you drained the oil and replaced it with gas? I do know it would be very clean from the solvent action, but how long would it run?


    • Wouldn’t run for very long, there’s a possibility it would even explode (or, as we say in the rocket business, a rapid disassembly). The gas fumes would undoubtedly ignite under the right conditions, and if the engine runs long enough to generate enough heat to facilitate external combustion of the gas fumes in the crankcase, it will be obvious that Something’s Wrong!

      I’d love to do something like this, replace all the oil with gas, set up a remote start, and have a servo to floor it once the engine catches.

      Something similar (well, in the same vein) is done with old vacuum cleaners, they take an old Hoover (or whatever) and put it in a shallow pan of gas out in the middle of the desert with a l-o-n-g extension cord and plug it in. I’ve never seen it IRL, but the YouBoob videos of it are AWESOME! Kinda like using LOX on charcoal to start the charcoal burning. It’s lit and ash in about .3 seconds. Wear body armor and a Nomex Flame Suit if you attempt this at home.

      Fun FUN *FUN* to run stuff like this to destruction!


      • Boy you have a destructive streak in you egorr! I’m gonna be careful around you! Watch you like a hawk! I like LOX, it is fun to play with and yes, stand way back when you ignite something in the vicinity of it. Liquid Nitrogen is fun to throw in rats ya caught, and then throw ’em in teh air and watch them explode into little pieces on the ground.


      • anyone who owned an 80’s gm car with a 2.8 v-6 and a carb will know exactly how well gas in the crankcase to clean it out. the fuel pumps would leak into the engine instead of externally to the ground. first indication is the low oil pressure warning lite comes on. the owner looks at the dipstick and doesn’t see the an indication of the oil on it-diluted so much that it won’t stick to it and appears clean- and adds some oil. totally confused at not seeing oil on the dipstick, they add more. still not seeing the level they hold it closer to their face for a better look and finally get a whiff of gas on the dipstick. also known as the GM Ahh Hah! moment.


  3. Thats straight weight non detergent grade.

    Lovely for your piston rings. Gum em up real nice, get you a good seal on the lands and grooves.


    • I replace ONE quart of oil with Ford Type A Suffix A ATF. Now known at Ford type FA. That really does a good job of loosening rings and hydraulic lifters if they are stuck. Also good for an initial oil treatment of an engine that has not been run in years. it un-gums them fast without ruining them.


      • I had a coworker once that ruined a small block Plymouth that was overheating by pulling the valve cover cap and pouring a gallon of anti freeze straight into the cylinder head.


        • I had a little old lady’s kid put engine oil in the power steering pump, took me three flushes to get it out! Didn’t damage anything much…


  4. On small engines – 2 cylinder stuff, usually under 25 HP, and smaller – there’s an old trick of replacing the oil with kerosene and running gently for 3-5 minutes. to clean out decades of sludge. Drain and refill with good, but cheap, oil because you’re going to change it (and the filter, if it has one) after 15-20 minutes of running, at least twice, to make sure all the kerosene is replaced and all the loosened sludge gets drained out. I’ve heard of a variation on egorr’s tip of using ATF – replace ALL the oil with ATF, run very gently for 4-5 minutes, then do the two 15 minute oil run/replace cycles. Never tried it.

    Liked by 1 person

    • Chuck, I had purchased a 1991 SHO engine from a friend that only had 7K miles on it, but had sat in his garage for 11 years (without draining the oil!) – it had been in a 1991 SHO that the girl’s boyfriend rolled at 125 MPH…

      The engine was intact, had some plastic shrouds broken (Timing cover and some dings on the timing gear), so I replaced the parts from my old engine (a 1989) and drained ALL the oil from it, replaced it with 5 quarts of type FA and a cheapass Fram filter, then put a 3/4″ drill with a socket on the harmonic balancer nut and proceeded to crank the engine at 350 rpm for about an hour. I had the plugs removed, of course! I could only do it in 15 minute increments because the 3/4″ drill motor got hot hot hot, so I paused for 5 minutes between each “session”. I monitored the oil pressure to make sure the ATF was getting all through the engine – it was at about 10-15 psi, I figured that was good enough.

      Drained, put in fresh oil/filter , slapped the engine in the SHO, it’s running today with over 100K miles on it – the car has 250K miles on it. Only had to change the clutch once. Yes, I used the NAPA cheap crap oil for the first ten minutes to “break it in”, When I drained it out it was almost clear, so the ATF did the job.

      My dad was a B17-B24-B29 mechanic in the AAF, taught me that trick when I was a teenager. He knew a LOT of slick tricks when it came to engines!!

      Liked by 1 person

    • Chuck, I forgot to say that the kerosene trick works well, but the ATF solution is actually better because ATF is a more refined oil and has better creep when it comes to tight tolerances in the engine. The kerosene is more of a solvent, though, so I guess it depends on the sludge factor. Either one works but the kerosene is certainly cheaper!


  5. Does make one wonder just how long an engine would run with cooking oil as lubricant. And would the type of oil matter even just a little. Olive oil would smell good but Peanut oil would probably last longer.


    • There’s actually a lot of “engineering” in motor oil, it’s how it responds to mechanical pressure between two surfaces that makes motor oil do what it does. Cooking oil is plant-based, so its molecule doesn’t respond to pressure like motor oil would. Sure, the engine would work for a while, but under load it’ll come to a grinding halt. Pun intended.

      Hey, from all the heat generated it’ll smell nice when it siezes…


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