Why Lubricating Your Firearms Is Important

Just look at all the moving parts and then take a closer look at the big Brass plug that slides inside a steel bore.

You don’t want things like that sliding back and forth in a dry and dirty environment.

lubricate

9 thoughts on “Why Lubricating Your Firearms Is Important

    • Yeah, Mobil 1 is excellent gun lube, works great, I use it too. Save some bucks also.
      I always heard ATF is a very high tech lubricant. It certainly has to do a lot of things, from anti foam characteristics to working with “wet” fiber clutch plates.
      I found it worked very well in a road race bike transmission I ran a number of years in place of 80 weight gear lube. Freed up 4 horsepower on the dyno going with the lighter viscosity of Dextron II. Never had problems or failures either.

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  1. This might be of concern for anyone who is thinking of carrying regularly. Few years back after our remote farm property in the WV mountains was invaded by 3 city type savages of African decent I began carrying a .45 24/7 either all steel or plastic lower receiver, depending on my mood for JM Browning’s, or high grade modern Croatian pistol craftsmanship, on that particular day. I quickly found out shit happens with weapons with a vengeance.
    I’m talking serious 24/7 carry here, no excuses, like one is even within a seconds reach when I have to take a crap, or am in the shower. I take being invaded very seriously. Very. If I had not had weapons within easy reach things my have turned out poorly for me.
    Then there is getting caught in the frequent instant torrential mountain showers, rolling on the moist grass or hay under a tractor or other farm equipment doing field repairs. Sweating my ass off like a bucket of water has been poured over your head. Most of your clothing soaked with sweat. You get the idea. Lots of moisture. This shit don’t happen in a nice dry gun safe or beside the bed or carrying in a nice dry cool office environment. Talking farm work, chainsawing & loading firewood etc.
    Doesn’t take much to get a sweat going working the gardens either, just hand weeding or cultivating with a hand hoe, roto-tilling, putting up fencing, digging taters and other physical outdoor chores.
    Found out real quick, like in a few days, my weapons collecting an amazing level of moisture on the side towards my body, began to rust within that time frame along the slide rails. Bad. Bad. Bad, weapons awareness on my part.
    Came as a real shock to me the first time I broke one down fully to do the regular normal inspection and cleaning I was accustomed to performing.
    I was and still am ashamed to have neglected to think critically in regards to unknowns once I was practicing 24/7 carry. Way I was raised, to allow rust or debri to develop on your firearm is a capitol offense.

    I believe the acid and other elements from my perspiration is fairly corrosive, and collecting in a tight tolerance mechanisms like the rails and channels on the slide frame interface, the slide release levers and the left side mag buttons, along with the high humidity summer weather is conditions perfect for rapid oxidation. Those are typically high carbon steel alloy bits, and those alloys tend to rust quickly due to their alloying.

    I have to add I had always left only a light bit of oil on my weapons, and carefully wiping off excess lube so as not to attract too must dust, dingleberries etc.
    Not anymore.
    Got me a few bottles of 30 weight synthetic Mobil 1 engine oil, shit stays on well, is way cheaper than “gun” oil, it is the most water resistant oil I think I can get to date, and douche my pistols and AR bolt carriers with it. Like to find some of that excellent mil spec LSA weapons oil in pints or quarts, used to be had everywhere. The only restraint I have to oiling my guns is to be sure excess oil does not foul the ammunition, other than that I drench them, wrap them in a nice well worn ragged out cotton tee shirt over night. As things turned out, I now alter between 3, .45 pistols on a daily rotation now. Gives each pistol 2 days for hidden moisture to dry out, and I only have one pistol to inspect and clean each day.
    To make it even more simple I have 3 of the exact same model pistols in the same caliber, all use the same holsters and mags. Beware I discovered ITWB leather backed/”Sweat shield” holsters like Galco’s King Tuk, not knocking them, they are very nice ITWB rigs for my use, that I find are excellent for rough working conditions like mine, 1st rate retention too, but, the leather backing which is extremely comfortable for me, soaks up moisture. I started oiling the leather along with the weapons. Seems to have reduced moisture transfer to the pistols by a lot. I wear these ITWB rigs at the 3:00 – 3:30 o’clock position on my right hand side. Outside either side of this position the holster tends to ride up out of my pants waist line and a couple time pistols have dropped into dirt and mud.
    The factory plastic outside on the belt holsters are very good as outside work rigs far as secure retention and accessing, but this type rig exposes my weapons to considerably more dirt, and debri’s.
    Everything is a balance of tradeoffs.
    The lesson I have learned is when you have a weapon in your hands or on your body every waking hour. Lot of stuff never showed up before happens, let me tell you. Have to say, now’s the time before shit gets sportier to find out whats going to go south with your weapons and gear so you don’t end up fucked when your needing one to be 100% reliable and accessible, in the real bad like circumstances.

    Along with a pistol, I try to have an AR carbine with me if at all possible. One series of experiences of note was with slings. I always have an AR slung over my back, using a two point conventional simple style nylon sling with HK hooks. I prefer being able to ride my rifles over my right shoulder muzzle down, so it can be whipped up front with just enough slack to make a good cheek weld offhand without the sling inhibiting a quick sight picture. Had to try a lot of various combinations of sling mount locations to keep the shape of the AR comfortable and steady over my back. This is critical stuff I have learned thru only experiencing conditions. It is probably different for everyone, but the basic premise here remains inviolate.
    I first used Uncle Mikes QD detent sling hooks. No matter what I did or how I set them, even the screw down style, they would eventually worry loose form all the physical movements all day, pop loose and my carbine would go muzzle first into mud or slam into a piece of solid equipment at a high rate of speed. Very disconcerting at the least.
    Tried detend quick disconnects, one of those popped loose too! Dirt crud got in it, it worried loose.
    Bought some loose HK style hooks, cut a couple 4 inch pieces of bicycle inner tube, from tiny tired street racer rims so they would be snug over the hooks, make sure the rubber is out past the hooks, and so far this has been reliable. Thing is like the rust, never would have found out, because of Murphy’s law of things tend towards chaos in the universe, till I probably needed my weapon the most if I hadn’t chosen to carry my weapons like a Minuteman Militia citizen solder of old.
    The primary epiphany learned from all this goes like, “We must once again learn to drink from the skulls of our enemies”, that includes learning the minute and nuances, and ways of the weapon hard learned long forgotten.

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  2. Humid where I live. Wet. Close to the coast to boot. Even stainless has issues so it takes constant attention, I have found floor wax and Eezox to work for me. And yes, if using leather, use something to treat it with or sweat will get to them quick. I love a good 1911 but am considering a tupperware gun for summer carry.

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    • The ex GI issue NRA 1911 I have is so well used there’s almost no mil spec parkerizing left on it. Bare metal everywhere. Rusts fast. Bought it back in 84 well used already. I can understand now why the US Military used that heavy thick layer parkerize in the old days. Stuff soaks up oil.

      Got a gallon of parker maganese phosphate solution from Brownell’s to try to re-parkerize stuff. I think there is another parker that is greenish color. Used the Brownell parker on a 4130 chrome moly tube fab stock for a .308 Saiga that came with the factory cheezy non hand grip, and that 3 inch long “trigger” they had to put on to pass import restrictions.
      Used 80 grit by hand to rough it up. Has a nice almost black color. Very simple process. To do it proper it really requires abrasive blast first. Waiting on an affordable rig.

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  3. Speaking of guns. These two guys are down to earth home work shop weapons men. Some really excellent ideas, techniques and creativity. NO BS, all action.
    Like stopping here, the day don’t seem complete if you miss a visit:

    http://tincanbandit.blogspot.com/?m=0

    https://tinkertalksguns.wordpress.com/

    This guy is a very accomplished machinist gunsmith. Recently, after a number of years as a home shop weapons man and high power shooter he opened a small gunsmithing business. Goes to inordinate lengths to obtain accuracy in weapons and ammo and shares all his tricks and discoveries as he has evolved. Some top shelf stuff here. He did a series of experiments with barrel length on exterior cartridge ballistics.
    https://rifleshooter.com/

    And these guys, wicked cool sight for barrel length velocity/energy research. Extensive graphs and data sheets. Ballistics By The Inch. Fascinating info. Monumental task:
    http://ballisticsbytheinch.com/

    These guys are a family run outfit in NewZealand: https://www.ballisticstudies.com/
    They are into real world results and research surrounding effects of bullet and cartridge designs involving killing power on large game. I bought one of their books, superlative resource and fascinating reading. Lot of free info and research results on their site too.

    All above are private regular people doing what they love. Amazing.

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