The Laptop, Tooth Brush And Clean Socks

 

I wish.

The Wifely Unit nags me into taking shit I never use every fucking year.

I throw it in a bag and stuff it in the trunk to shut her up then bring it home and put it back away.

how_to_never_understand_men_640_high_26

28 thoughts on “The Laptop, Tooth Brush And Clean Socks

  1. I don’t want to hijack a thread, but I know there’s some Ford guys here with real world experience…

    Anyway, I’ve got a 1988 F350 diesel. I was firing the thing up yesterday, she’s a bit of a hard starter, the first time didn’t work and I turned it off and re-heated the glow plugs tried again and suddenly the starter quit mid turn. Glow plugs come on, turn the key, nothing. No click just nothing. Ok…so I think maybe the bendix is stuck, crawl under the truck with a hammer and hit the starter a couple of times…nothing. Turn the key to on, grab a screwdriver and jump the solenoid, She starts right up. Turns off no problem, try turning it on again…nothing. So I know I’ve a problem from the key to the solenoid. This truck has been re-built several times, and is basically hot-wired. I trace the wiring from the steering column and it goes to a little electrical junction box next to the solenoid, so my ignition wire goes from the column to this little box, held to the body by two screws, from there the hot wire goes to the solenoid. I’ve checked all of the fuses, nothing is burn out. Could the problem be this little electrical contraption, I’ve no idea what the name is. I’ve got the steering column half torn apart and I’m not seeing any shorts, but I could go ahead and tear more apart. Don’t know where to go from here. Suggestions?

    Liked by 1 person

    • Oh, and I can feel the push rod that rides on top of the steering column from the keys moving when I turn them.

      Like

    • Oh fuck, you got a can of worms there pal. Does it have a tilt steering wheel?
      There is a Rube Goldberg linkage set up that goes from the ignition lock cylinder to the ignition switch at the base of the steering column on the top side.
      I have seen that linkage break before so the ignition switch isn’t being slid over far enough to get to the starter contacts. You should be able to feel the spring resistance in the key when you turn it to the start position.
      Dropping the steering column isn’t that hard , just take care of the PRNDL indicator string so it doesn’t break. After the column is down far enough you should be able to find the wire that goes out to the solenoid and use a 12 volt test light to see if it is getting juice when the key is turned.
      If all else fails and you need the rig, run a hot wire to a momentary switch then out to the solenoid.

      Like

      • It could also be a bad ignition switch, still a bitch to get to but much easier with the column dropped. Look very closely at the connector if you can get it out, Ford had issues with some of their ignition switches. The connector got hot and basically melted.

        Like

      • It’s a tilt steering wheel, floor shift model.
        I’ve replaced the whole steering column in the past, so that sort of thing is no problem, especially dropping it if I have to.
        I can feel the resistance on the linkage, and can feel it move.
        I’m starting to think my problem lies from the ignition switch to the solenoid. Possibly the starter relay (which, after pouring over wiring diagrams, is what I think the little box next to the solenoid is) of course it could be the ignition switch.
        Fun times on my day off…
        Oh, and this fun all started when I was inspecting why my drivers side window wouldn’t go up, already ordered the whole regulator. Joy.

        Like

        • Dropped the steering column and removed the ignition switch and the starter relay. Guess I’ll start with replacing those and going from there.
          Thanks for the advise.

          Like

          • I’m not familiar with the starter relay but beings as it’s Ford I ain’t surprised.
            If it has one that could be the issue.
            I mean, everyone needs relay to run a relay, right?
            Good luck with the bastard and like I said, if ya gotta, bypass the whole shootin’ match with a momentary switch until you have time to figure it out.

            Oh wait, This relay is starting to ring a bell, I think it controls the glow plugs too.
            I didn’t work on the diesels too much but a few here and there.

            Like

            • Oh, after I disconnected the ignition switch yet before I decoupled it from the wiring I took a screwdriver and actuated it, nothing happened, So I’m guessing the linkage was working just fine. Has to be the ignition switch. I hope.

              Like

    • Replaced the ignition switch and the thing that I thought was a relay which turned out to be a 12v30A breaker.
      No progress.
      I wonder if it could be the solenoid, even if I can jump it with a screwdriver?
      Bah! Heading back to the auto parts store.

      Like

          • Got my handy-dandy test light out and…
            Getting power to the ignition.
            Getting power out of ignition.
            Getting power to the breaker.
            Getting power out of the breaker.
            Getting power to the solenoid.
            Can’t turn the key and check from the the solenoid.
            Solenoid is next to be replaced.

            Like

            • The Wifely Unit forced me to take a shower and now I gotta get The Full Meal Deal at a Barbershop.
              If you have juice coming out of the ignition switch then leave it alone. there are slots in the bracket for adjustment if necessary, if your key doesn’t return to the normal location when you let off you can adjust for that.
              If you can jump the solenoid and it works but doesn’t when juice is going to it then I would go there next also. Seems kinda strange that you can jump it though.
              Ain’t that shit fun?
              It’s what I did for a living for years.

              Like

      • Well…
        Went back to the parts store for like the umpteenth time, got another solenoid, installed it and…
        Nothing.
        Buttoned up the steering column into it’s correct place, re-installed the steering wheel, jumped the solenoid, and parked the fucking truck.
        It’s 4:30 and I’ve been working on this damn thing all day long, on my day off none the less.
        I’m done for the day.
        Maybe someone who knows better can lead me into the right direction, or I’ll rig up some sort of ignition switch/button. It ain’t like the damn thing is my Sunday go to church truck.
        Here is something to ponder though. When I turn the key to run, the glow plugs start, my analog dials in the dash work, and the radio turns on. When I turn the key all the way to start all of that stuff stops working.

        Like

  2. Ah, blessed stress relief.
    Since all I do is work, and prep, and stack, and being the good little miscreant that I am, I followed Aesop’s advise and picked up a Mossberg 590A1 Retro yesterday after I worked off in the morning.
    About 24 trigger pulls later my shoulder is going to know it, but I feel much better after today’s festivities.

    Liked by 1 person

    • Dude, you have a real head scratcher going on there. It sucks ass trying to figure out whats going on without being able to put my hands on it.
      You say you replaced all those parts and that you definitely have juice coming from the ignition switch to the new solenoid, the solenoid doesn’t pull in when the key is turned but you can jump across the solenoid and it starts.
      I would be looking at your grounds now.
      The solenoid is case grounded on the fender as I recall. Try checking your battery to body ground connection. You can verify the solenoid works by running a jumper wire from the negative terminal on your battery straight to the mounting bolt on the solenoid and then taking another jumper wire and go straight from the positive terminal, touch it on the small post in the middle of the solenoid where the wire from the ignition switch connects to it. If the solenoid works at that point you either have a bad ground , you aren’t getting enough voltage from the switch or both.

      Like

      • I’ve decided that I’ll just bypass everything and install some sort of push button or toggle switch.
        Just have to figure out how.
        Enough of this nonsense.

        Like

  3. Finally got a chance to start working on my bypass, just for shits and giggles I tried to start it regularly.
    It’s a miracle!
    Started first try.
    Time to follow wires (again for the umpteenth time) to find a possible short.

    Like

  4. Did the bypass.
    Starts right up, Lickety split.
    Switched out the window regulator on the drivers side.

    Suddenly the passenger side rear blinker does not work. Fixed that (+3-4hrs.)
    Go to get the truck inspected for Tx. Only dude in the CO is out for another 2 weeks..

    Damn. Register the 14′ flat bottom skiff trailer . Beaukeaup bucks.

    Kid goes “hey, dad, you’ve got a leak on your tractor tire.
    Yep, sure as shit I do.
    Eating leftovers, covered in hydraulics and anti=freze from the tire…

    Liked by 1 person

Pansies, Trolls and Liberals are urged to flee this place.

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s