It Makes Holes Again!!

Of course it was the usual absolute fiasco getting to this point but such is my lot in life apparently.

People still wonder why I’m so fucking stubborn too.

Because I have to be.

Nothing I try to do goes easy, it’s always gotta be a series of set backs and work arounds.

This was no exception.

The motor I wanted to use and already had mounted spun the wrong way of course.

It’s a Dayton 115/220 volt motor with a capacitor start.

Shouldn’t be too hard to swap things around, right?

Oh fuck no. I dicked around with the sonofabitch while it was still mounted, finally got pissed off and unbolted it, then turned it sideways and hung it at eye level so I could see what the hell I was doing.

One of the studs broke off because it was corroded to beat hell and even with the wiring diagram staring me right in the face, no matter what I did, it would only spin one way.

I finally got out one of the probably six Harbor Freight Freebie digital voltmeters I have laying around and started doing continuity checks.

I have so many of those things there was literally one two feet away, still in the package.

On a 220-240-480 3 phase motor, you just swap out any two of the three wires and away you go. Not so with this bitch and 115 volts.

One of the leads from the capacitor is soldered in on the back side to one of the power lead studs.

Hence, I will have to tear the thing apart, de-solder and move one of the wires.

I ain’t got the patience for that shit today.

I tried the other Dayton almost exactly like it on the floor and it spun the wrong way too. Back to the motor that supposedly came off of the thing in the first place.

Something tells me that it wasn’t original equipment either.


That funky homemade brass shaft adapter being my first clue.

This time I bench tested the fucker first but of course, I had to make up a power cord first and out of all of the shit I have laying around out there, I didn’t have a spare Male plug for it. I had to take one off of my drop light first.

The motor didn’t spin very freely by hand either. I suspect that it hadn’t been oiled in thirty years or so.

After I cleaned several decades worth of dirt, grease and grime off the fucker, I put some oil in the little cups and spun it a few times. Not much improvement right away. I wired it up, set it on the floor, put my foot on it and plugged it in.

The first thing that had gone right so far, it spun the correct way.

Gotta use different mounting bolts, of course.

Finally got the cocksucker mounted with the belt and pulley on it and wired up.


Pushed the Start button and away it went.


The motor freed up after it ran for a couple of minutes, finally got some oil in there and then I started cleaning up the spindle.

Some asshole really did  number on it in the past.

This kind of abuse just pisses me off,


Some asshole pounding on it with a hammer in the past and dinged the shit out of it, all the way around it.

It is what it is.

I stuffed a chuck in it, dug out the complete piece of garbage Harbor Freight drill press vise I could never use before and threw a bit in the chuck and some scrap in the vise.

Away we go.





Yeah, I know, the vise ain’t bolted down. I had a hold of one of the handles in case the bit grabbed so it wouldn’t go sailing just in case and it wasn’t super tight to begin with.

I just wanted to see if it actually worked finally.

I wasn’t kidding when I said that vise is garbage either. I did a post on it after I bought it and had to tear it completely apart. I can honestly say that it is the worst piece of shit I have ever purchased from Harbor Freight. Incredibly, almost unbelievably horrible.

Do not even let a friend buy one of those fuckers, ever.

I will be scouring the internet here shortly for something at least half way decent and getting a hold down set too. I have another drill press vise but it’s yet another HF POS but it will do for now. I have a couple of small machinist vises too.

The Hold Down set is on the short list for Christmas. They aren’t that expensive.

There is still a bunch of cleaning and other things to do yet but just getting it back together and working again was my main objective.

I haven’t measured it yet but from watching it, there doesn’t seem to be a whole bunch of run out either. The one thing I was really worried about the most of all, getting it back together and seeing the bit flailing around in the wind.

Pretty amazing after seeing all the hammer marks on the spindle.

All in all I am just tickled shitless right now.



24 thoughts on “It Makes Holes Again!!

  1. Make a drift to go in that slot so you can tap out the arbor when you need to change chucks. Too easy, or buy one for a dollar from ebay. I have one, and it’s always missing. I don’t’ have any MT sockets like that tho. Only a few adapters from 1 MT to 2 MT or 2 to 3 that need that.

    Well done man. I’m glad it’s working.


    • I have a pair of jaws from a defunct electric metal shear that have the perfect flatness and taper for knocking them out. I can also make one out of some milder steel pretty easy.
      I will be ordering the correct taper for the chuck when it gets here Saturday.
      man, the Post Office is all over that tracking thing, I have already gotten five updates from them!


  2. Way to go! Will the dings in the spindle cause any problems? Does it move freely? I agree, abusing a tool is worse then abusing a wife or child…. (just kidding, some)


    • Hopefully they are just cosmetic, the taper inside is what is most important to be damage free.
      I have only drilled the two holes with it so far but I am liking what I see.


  3. Well done, sir. Love the crescent wrench too. Stamped U.S.A. I have some of my dad’s old wrenches with about the same patina. The newest one I bought myself is marked “Taiwan”, not communist “China”.


    • I try to snag that kind of stuff every chance I get.
      I have a bunch of Chinesium crap adjustable wrenches too but several have that one extremely aggravating feature that I hate with a passion and you will know what I am talking about instantly.
      The fucking jaws close up just a bit every time you try to take them off of whatever it is you are twisting on.
      You have to dick with the adjusting wheel to get it off.
      I hate that with a white hot passion and will throw the motherfucker away because of it if I am in the right mood.


    • Don’t feel bad about Taiwanese or Japanese tools. I bought two
      sets of Japanese laser etched 1/2″ impact sockets from Harbor
      Freight. Great build quality and they have stood the test of time
      in a heavy industrial environment. I bought the second set and
      cut down some L-handled Allen wrenches to augment my Allen
      socket set from 3/8 to 1″. I kept the remains of the set as spares.

      I also bought a 3/4″ Williams brand impact socket set online. When
      I saw Made in Taiwan, I was disappointed but again, the build quality
      was outstanding. After mourning the loss of a great American tool
      brand, I came to realize Williams is calling the shots on their Taiwan
      made tools.

      Joe homeowner Screwed Harbor Freight in the neck. There was a
      time I could buy Rigid Tools, SK Tools, Crescent, Ingersoll Rand,
      and CP pneumatic tools, Makita and DeWalt cordless tools, Amflo
      blowguns, quick disconnect fittings, etc. Joe Homeowner would
      not spend top dollar for quality tools, so in the course of a single
      year, all of the quality tools were gone!

      Liked by 1 person

      • I have no problem buying foreign made tools.
        After all these years, I can spot quality at a glance and the same goes for garbage. Just because it has a big name brand on it doesn’t necessarily mean it is automatically a quality tool. I quit buying Mac tools back in the early 90’s because their quality went to shit way back then.
        I recently picked up a vintage set of old Williams double offset box wrenches at a yard sale for a buck apiece. A quick trip through the wire wheel to get the rust and crud off turned them right back into the bad ass wrenches they were the day they were produced.
        The stuff is out there, ya just gotta be patient and find it.


  4. Way to go, Phil!

    Who the fuck would hammer on a spindle? If I caught an employee of mine doing that to a piece of shop equipment, he wouldn’t be an employee for much longer!

    The last decent drill press vise I had I bought from “Nate’s Industrial Tools” in Torrance, CA. Left it in Long Beach when we moved, along with the little HF bench drill press I had.


  5. Phil Hi, We use Evaporust liquid from Northern Hydraulics @$75/5 gal. Will work great on removing rust from your drill press stand pipe. Will have to wrap pipe with rags or old towels and keep it wet and then wrap with plastic wrap to keep the liquid from drying out .I use a large syringe to keep injecting liquid it thru the plastic wrap as needed. One to two days, will take all of the rust off by a process called chelating .Look up on net, a guy used a kidde pool, bird bath pump and a shower spray head under a 70’s Lincoln Continental spraying liquid continuously for a week and removed all of the rust on the axle, rotors, springs. carframes etc. at his restoration shop. Only thing if you leave it on or submerged for several weeks the part will take on a darker shade. How do I know??Can be painted directly over dried film. Also have used it several times in gas tanks to remove internal rust overnight after shaking with a two feet of chain inside the tank to take most of the rust off then pour liquid up to the very top. Larger tanks can be rotated in quarter turns two days at a time. Can use this liquid over and over until it becomes real dark and then pour around your rose bushes as they love the iron reach liquid. (Don’t mix old and new, keep in two separate containers to make it last a lot longer)
    We have used it several times on old Bridgeport and lathes from sales to take off rust without compromising surface finish like sanding or you can use medium (maroon) Merit Scotchbrite disk on a 4.5″ side grinder which works well. Also used Evaporust on restoring cars for taking the rust out around the windshield and back glasses once the glass is removed. My mentor taught us to use Muriatic acid but it will turn your skin yellow(fingers), smells bad and is very hydroscopic so it will rust all of your tools in a shop over night must be used only outside. Use vinegar to kill the Muriatic acid and then hot water to kill the vinegar, back when we use to restore cars for 26 years. Muriatic acid will eat away only the rust and will not affect sound metal. Then use 7769 Rusty metal primer over the affected dried surface, wait three days(for the fish oil to dry out) and start color sanding using a soap sliver from your bathroom in your water bucket to keep your sandpaper lubricated. (If you don’t wait three days it will gum up your sand paper) Primer surface affected area and Top coat with virtually any paints. It is an oil based paint with fish oil in it so it soaks down into any rust you didn’t remove, so don’t dilute the lacquer primer surfacer with much thinner or it will lift the edges of the 7769.
    Still have cars where this was done 38 years ago and the rust has never come back out. A 75year old professional painter was my mentor in the 70’s and taught us how to prepare and paint cars like they did back in the 1930’s including leading . Most of it still applicable today for show cars. (Of course they didn’t have candies, pearls, flakes , flip flops, or House of Color back in those days) Everything back then was Cellulose black.


    • Dang it, I forgot to reply to you. This should make you laugh.
      I read your message from my Email feed, in the parking lot at Harbor Freight, after I had just went in and purchased a gallon of EvapOrust.


  6. Hey Phil Have you checked out Grizzly brand drill press vices? They have multi axis vices,item # g1064 and others. Maybe a step up from Harbor Freight. Take care ,Al


    • Haven’t looked there yet. I may have a line on a big Palmgren that got fucked up and stripped out. I have talked to a friend about drilling out the cast iron and installing a sleeve.
      If it all works out, the price would be right anyway.
      Pick it up and pack it off. We shall see what happens there later on.


  7. Someone bent the spindle and was too lazy to take it apart and press it straight. So they used a hammer in place…
    I have the exact same drill press and you will note the spindle extending way out of the quill, unlike almost any other drill press out there. I can only think this was done for access to restricted areas. It does mean the spindle is unsupported for 6″ or so, (I used a press to straighten mine.)
    I hear you on the vise- I bought a cheapo green one and had to put it on the mill and true every bearing surface- base, sides, ways and jaws.


    • Someone bent the spindle and was too lazy to take it apart and press it straight. So they used a hammer in place…
      I have the exact same drill press and you will note the spindle extending way out of the quill, unlike almost any other drill press out there. I can only think this was done for access to restricted areas. It does mean the spindle is unsupported for 6″ or so, (I used a press to straighten mine.)
      I hear you on the vise- I bought a cheapo green one and had to put it on the mill and true every bearing surface- base, sides, ways and jaws.

      (BTW, That extended quill makes it pretty shaky for a mill, because of side loading flexing the spindle (if that is what you had in mind….)


  8. I don’t know if they still give them away, but most electrical supply stores used
    to hand out free pocket electrical reference books. If you have a missing or
    damaged nameplate, you could bug out the motor coils with a VOM to get an
    idea what kind of motor you are dealing with. The book covers motor types,
    frame dimensions, wiring diagrams, generic motor control, and starter schematics,
    ampacities, etc. Or you could spend about 12 bucks for an Uglies Pocket
    Reference which is much more detailed. My reference library consists of
    an Ugly’s Pocket Reference, a few of the old free-bee electrical references,
    a pocket mechanics guide and a hardcover Audels Machinist and Millwrights
    Guide. GE and Furnas dealers gave away heavy card stock slide rules back
    in the 70s. Single phase on one side, three phase on the other.

    If you were going to install a 10 HP three phase compressor, you could get
    minimum wire size, conduit size, magnetic starter size, thermal overload
    relay number, (manufacturer specific) breaker or fuse size, etc. If you want
    information on the electrical or mechanical pocket references, I will dig them
    out of my cluttered workshed and send you the exact titles.

    Liked by 1 person

      • Both the mechanical and electrical pocket references are published
        by the EASA, which is some kind of association. They usually publish
        in bulk for companies like Delta Motor Company, electrical supply
        houses, etc. They custom print batches with the logo of the
        companies they sell to.

        i just discovered that I have an extra copy of both the electrical and
        mechanical reference, so if you can find a way to get me an address
        or PO Box, I can simply send them to you. Shipping will be <1 dollar
        in stamps, so I'll eat it. You will find a lot of good information in these


  9. You are right about three phase motors, and switching any two power leads reversing the direction of spin. But single phase motors (any motor with only two power leads, even if one is a neutral) will only spin one direction. It cannot be changed. Sorry


    • It is possible on many 115 Volt motor because I have done it.
      Especially ones with a starting capacitor. I just need to get access to the one wire that is behind the insulating plate that is soldered to one of the power input leads.
      There are 115 v motors that you can’t reverse but if it has a separate starter winding or a starter capacitor you should be able to swap it around.


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