Praise Jesus, I think I finally got that dirty motherfucker whipped.
That thing has had a bizarre idle problem since before I got it, witnessed by a whole slew of new parts that were on it I saw the first time I opened the hood.
I personally have been fucking with it off and on since I got the damn thing.
I know the EGR valve was fucked up and so was the position sensor for it because the Check Engine light kept coming on but I finally got that issue resolved. Ever since then the idle would randomly jump up anywhere from 1200 to 2500 RPM without warning
. This could be very exciting when you are sitting at a light behind someone daydreaming and not paying any attention when all of a sudden the engine roars and the whole rig lurches forward like a pissed off Lion on a leash.
Much puckering of asshole ensues, every fucking time.
The thing is, there is no more Check Engine light on and no fucking codes.
Just really vicious Gremlins playing fucky fuck games.
From long ago past experience I remembered that these things have an Intake Air temperature sensor on them and when they go bad, what happens is that they think it is -40 degrees outside. They don’t kick a code either if my faulty memory is correct. The computer just looks at it, says OK and richens the fuel mixture up like a motherfucker like the choke on a carburetor is stuck closed because it thinks the engine is somewhere near the North Pole and it wants to make sure it is getting enough fuel.
This is obviously not a good thing.
So off to Youtube Land I went, looking for videos and information on those dirty little bastards. They tend to get carboned up on the business end which is inside the intake manifold.
I really didn’t find too much but after one video got done playing, one of the Suggested videos over on the side bar caught my attention. Something about High Idle Problems on an F-150 about the same vintage as the bronco.
The Bronco is basically a really short F-150 with a factory installed canopy anyway so I dove in to see what that one was all about.
It wasn’t too long before the little light came on.
The guy had the exact same problems I was experiencing but he finally found the root cause and was nice enough to share his findings.
God Bless You Sir!
And what was the exact cause of all of this shared misery?
The guy I bought it from mentioned that the computer might be fucked up but he is no mechanic and back in the day when I was still working on those fuckers for a living, the odds of a CPU shitting the bed were something like 1,000 to 1.
99% of the time it was something else.
Well, that was thirty years ago and apparently they haven’t aged well since then.
What the YouTube guy found when he opened the damn thing up was several burned up capacitors.
Then there were a few more videos from other guys and they had run into the same thing after pulling their hair out and throwing very expensive ,hard to get to, parts at their trucks. It didn’t matter what engine it was either. Just that they were in Ford trucks of that era.
So I rolled the dice and ordered one up today. NAPA offered several reman units at varying prices, depending on what you wanted to spend, on their website. They actually showed several being in stock at my local NAPA store.
It was lying.
When I called with a part number I got a zero available ANYWHERE answer even though the website showed them having one on hand. I started down the list, them getting more expensive as I went.
I finally hit a winner at $99 with a $98 Core Charge.
That is not a typo.
The website also stated that they needed the VIN number and the OE number off the CPU.
Guess what that means?
Follow the little red wire down the hose on the right until you get to the first Zip Tie and you can see the head of the bolt you have to get at to take the huge fucking wire connection plug off.
You have to pull it out to see the numbers on it.
All the instructions I found kept saying you had to take the front wheel off and then the inner fender had to come loose to get the thing out.
Oh FUCK No.
That rusty thing is part of the foot operated E brake assembly.
It’s inside, up in the Kick Panel hidey hole, BEHIND the fucking E Brake assembly.
I obviously got it out but it was LOTS of fun as you can imagine.
I went and got the new one, stuffed the bastard back in there, put everything back together inside, put the big connector back on and hooked the battery up.
I sat and had a smoke and said a couple silent prayers, then reached in and cranked it over.
I’ll be damned if it didn’t start.
So I informed Wifely Unit to keep the phone handy and took it for a spin.
Night and Day.
No more high idle, a nice sedate 7-800 RPM. As a matter of fact, after I put gas in it, it didn’t want to start until I pushed the gas pedal down a bit. The engine then started surging trying to establish an idle speed. It has done that several times now so I unplugged the Idle Speed Air Bypass Solenoid and the engine died completely. I see the little bastard of a Hard Stop idle speed screw has been chewed up by Bubba and his Vise Grips so I am going to have to fuck with that now. You unplug the solenoid, and set the idle speed to a default setting without computer assist so you have a base RPM, then you plug it back in and the computer adjusts the idle speed as it deems necessary from there.
That is obviously not where it needs to be.
It also takes time for the computer to learn my driving habits because they do actually do that and adjust things accordingly.
One of the first things I did after I got out on the road was to mash the gas pedal to the floor and hold it there until I hit 50 miles an hour..
Learn quickly and remember that throttle position you fucker, you will be seeing it often.
I’m just fucking tickled to have this issue resolved finally, I hope.
We shall see but it is already way the fuck better. It didn’t even try to kick the idle up over where it is supposed to be.
I needed to get this issue fixed before the snow and ice started flying this Winter.
I can vividly imagine what would happen if I was trying to get up and down these hills around here in slippery conditions and that fucker all of a sudden deciding 2500 RPM’s was in order when I was wanting to crawl at a slow idle, behind someone else.
On to the next issue, that fucking ABS light.